Fix a laundry machine that won’t spin

A laundry load that comes out soaking wet can wreck your day. The good news is most spin problems start with simple causes you can check at home.

Here we cover quick checks you can do in minutes, then deeper checks such as lid switches, door locks, drain issues, belts, motors, and settings. We also explain when it is time to call a tech. If you book Sydney Appliance Service, we use genuine appliance parts, and we service all of Sydney.

The aim is not to turn you into a full repairer. The aim is to help you sort small things fast and make smart choices for the bigger stuff. 

How to fix a laundry machines that won’t spin

Safety first

Before you try to fix a laundry machine, think safety. Turn off the power at the wall. If you need to move the washer, bend your knees and get help. If you smell burning, see scorch marks, or water is near a power point, stop and call a pro. Water and power do not play nice. If your machine is under warranty, check your booklet before you open panels. Using genuine appliance parts protects your warranty and helps the machine run the way it was designed.

Quick checks that solve a lot of spin problems

Do these first. Many “won’t spin” calls are fixed right here.

1. Check the load.
   If the load is too big or too small, the drum can go off balance and the machine will slow or stop the spin. Split a heavy, wet doona or towels into two loads. Try a few extra items if you washed one jumper on its own.
2. Check the door or lid.
   Front loaders have a door lock. Top loaders have a lid switch. If the lock or switch is not made, the washer will not spin. Close the door or lid firmly. Listen for a click. Wipe lint or threads out of the latch. If the door feels loose, the lock may be worn.
3. Check the settings.
   Make sure you did not pick a gentle cycle with no final spin. Some wool or hand-wash cycles do that by design. Try a spin-only cycle to test.
4. Check the drain.
   Washers will not spin if they still have water in the drum. If you can hear water sloshing, the pump or filter may be blocked. Clear that first.
5. Check for child lock or pause.
   If child lock is on, buttons will not respond. Clear the lock using your model’s key combo. Also check that you did not press pause by mistake.
6. Power reset.
   Turn the machine off at the wall for two minutes, then on again. A simple reset can clear a small glitch and help fix a laundry machine that stopped mid-cycle.

If one of these fixes the spin, great. If not, move to the checks below.

Front loader vs top loader at a glance

Front loaders usually use a door lock, a drain pump with a service filter, a belt or a direct-drive motor, and shock absorbers to steady the drum. Top loaders usually use a lid switch, a drive belt, and suspension rods to keep the tub steady. The main ideas below apply to both, but some steps differ. We will point that out as we go.

Easy drain and filter check

Many machines refuse to spin if they cannot drain. Clearing a blockage is one of the simplest ways to fix a laundry machine that won’t spin.

1. Turn off power and water.
2. Find the filter or pump clean-out.
   Front loaders often have a small door at the front bottom corner. Top loaders may hide a coin trap inside the drain hose or have no user filter at all.
3. Put a tray and towels down.
4. Open the cap slowly.
   Let water out in small bursts so you do not flood the room.
5. Remove lint, coins, hair pins, and rubber bands.
   Spin the pump impeller with your finger. It should turn freely.
6. Check the drain hose for kinks or a sock in the end of the standpipe.
7. Close it up, power on, and run a spin-only or drain-and-spin.

If it now drains and spins, you just used the simplest path to fix a laundry machine. If it still fails, keep going.

Lid switch or door lock problems

This is a very common cause. The machine thinks the lid or door is open, so it refuses to spin.

Top loader lid switch

A lid switch sits under the top deck and clicks when the lid closes. If the switch is broken or the striker on the lid is bent, the control never sees “lid closed.”

Signs
• No spin at all, even with an empty tub
• You hear the motor try, then stop
• The machine only spins if you press hard on the lid

Tests
• Close the lid and listen for a click
• Shine a light at the switch area to look for a broken tab
• With power off, gently press the switch with a blunt tool. If it feels loose or does not click, it may be faulty

Fix
On many models, the switch can be swapped from the top once you lift the panel. Using genuine appliance parts here is smart. Third-party switches can fit badly and cause repeat faults. If you are not confident with panels or wiring, call an appliance tech. A switch is a quick repair with the right part.

Front loader door lock

Front loaders use an electro-mechanical lock. It clicks shut, then the control waits a few seconds before it allows a spin.

Signs
• Door closes but you do not hear the lock click
• Error code about “door” or “lock”
• The machine will fill and wash but stops before the spin

Tests
• Close the door firmly. Push near the lock, not the hinge
• Look for a loose latch plate on the door
• Run a spin-only cycle and listen for a click at the start

Fix
Locks do wear out. Use genuine appliance parts so the lock matches the strike plate and wiring. Cheap locks can cause error codes and poor sealing. If your hinge is bent, fix that too or the new lock will still not align.

Belt problems

Many washers use a drive belt between the motor and the drum. A loose, frayed, or broken belt can stop a spin or make it weak.

Signs
• Drum turns by hand, but the motor runs without moving the drum
• Burning rubber smell
• Belt dust under the back panel
• Very slow spin, then stop

Tests
• Power off, rear panel off
• Tug the belt. It should be firm, not loose
• Check for cracks, glazing, or missing ribs

Fix
Replace the belt if there is any doubt. A belt is a classic way to fix a laundry machine that won’t spin. Use genuine appliance parts so the belt profile and length match your pulleys. A wrong belt can slip or shred fast. While you are in there, spin the large drum pulley by hand. It should run true, with no wobble. If it wobbles, the pulley or spider could be damaged and you should call a pro.

Direct-drive motor issues

Some front loaders do not have a belt. The motor bolts to the back of the drum. These motors are strong, but the rotor or stator can get loose, or a hall sensor can fail.

Signs
• Loud knocking from the back
• E2/E3 or tachometer error on some brands
• No movement at all, even though the lock clicks and the pump runs

Tests
• Power off, back panel off
• Check that the big centre bolt on the rotor is not loose
• Look for cracked magnets or a loose sensor plug
• Gently wiggle the wiring plugs. They should be tight

Fix
Tighten the rotor bolt to spec if it has crept loose. If the sensor is faulty, use genuine appliance parts for the replacement. Sensors vary by model and the wrong one can cause repeat errors. Motor faults are a good point to call Sydney Appliance Service. We carry test gear and genuine appliance parts, so you are not guessing.

Motor brushes and capacitors on older models

Older machines with universal motors use carbon brushes that wear down. Some top loaders use a start capacitor to help motors kick into spin.

Signs of worn brushes
• Motor hums but drum does not start
• Burning smell or lots of sparks seen through the vent
• Spins after a push by hand, then stops again

Fix
Brushes are replaceable, but get the right ones. Genuine appliance parts matter here because brush size and spring tension must match your motor. If a capacitor is weak, a new genuine part is low cost and can bring spin back to full power.

Suspension, shocks, and off-balance stops

If the machine feels like a trampoline, it may stop the spin to protect itself.

Top loaders
They use suspension rods with small plastic cups at the top. If they wear, the tub bounces.

Front loaders
They use shock absorbers under the drum and springs above it.

Signs
• The tub or drum bangs the cabinet
• The machine “walks” on the floor
• Off-balance lights flash and the cycle ends with wet clothes

Simple tests
• Push down on the empty tub or drum and let go. It should settle quickly
• Look for oil leak marks on front-loader shocks
• Check that feet are level and locked

Fix
Replace worn rods or shocks. These parts last longer as genuine appliance parts because the damping rate matches the model. If you change one shock, change both so the pair matches.

Pressure switch and hose

If the control thinks the washer is still full of water, it will block the spin. A small air hose tells it the water level.

Signs
• It drains, but then refuses to spin
• Water level seems wrong on fills
• Frequent “off-balance” even with neat loads

Test and fix
• Power off, remove the top panel on a front loader or the back on some top loaders
• Check the thin hose from the tub to the pressure switch for splits or blockages
• Clear any soap scum in the hose. Make sure it is not kinked
• If the switch itself is faulty, use a genuine appliance part so the calibration is correct

Control board and software resets

Boards rarely fail, but it happens. Before you assume a bad board, try a proper reset.

• Power off at the wall for five minutes
• On some models, hold Start and another key to enter a diagnostic spin test
• If the machine spins in diagnostics but not in a normal cycle, a sensor or setting is your culprit

If a board is needed, the safe path is a genuine appliance part. Boards must match the exact code on your model sticker.

Easy home tests in order

Here is a simple path you can follow to fix a laundry machine that won’t spin without diving too deep too early.

1. Balance and reload
   Split heavy items. Add or remove a few pieces. Try a spin-only cycle.
2. Door or lid
   Close it firmly. Listen for the click. Wipe lint from the latch. Run spin-only again.
3. Filter and drain
   Open the filter door. Drain into a tray. Clear coins and lint. Check the pump impeller. Check the drain hose for kinks. Run drain-and-spin.
4. Settings
   Confirm you are not on a no-spin program. Clear child lock. Reset power.
5. Belt or direct drive
   If it still fails, remove the back panel. Check belt condition and tension, or check rotor bolt tightness on direct-drive models.
6. Suspension
   Press down on the drum or tub. If it bounces, plan to replace shocks or rods.
7. Switch or lock
   If the machine acts like the lid is open, test the switch or lock and replace with genuine appliance parts if needed.

These steps solve a large share of spin failures. If you reach step 5 or 6 and feel unsure, book Sydney Appliance Service. We carry genuine appliance parts for common belts, locks, pumps, brushes, shocks, and capacitors, so most jobs are same-day fixes.

Noise clues you can trust

Different sounds point to different faults.

• Loud hum, no spin
Pump jam or motor can’t start. Check filter, then belt or capacitor.

• Fast whir, but drum still
Belt off or snapped.

• Click, then silence
Door lock issue or board not seeing the lock. Check latch and lock.

• Thump, thump during spin
Off-balance or worn suspension.

• High-pitched squeal
Glazed belt or tight pulley. Stop and check.

If the noise is electric arcing or you smell burning, stop at once and call a tech. This is not a DIY moment.

Floor and levelling

A level washer spins better. Check the feet on all corners. Adjust until the cabinet does not rock. Lock the feet. Anti-vibration pads can help in units with timber floors. Levelling is a low-cost way to fix a laundry machine that stops with off-balance warnings.

Water left in clothes after the spin

If the machine spins but clothes are still wet, try a higher spin speed, use less detergent, and do not overload the drum. Too much suds can cushion clothes and slow water out. Run a maintenance wash once a month to clear soap film. If you keep getting wet loads, the pump or the belt might be weak. A new pump or belt using genuine appliance parts can restore a strong spin.

When to call a pro

Call a pro when:

• Power trips when the spin starts
• There is water under the machine or rust at the base
• The door will not unlock and there is water inside
• The control shows repeated error codes after you have cleared blockages
• You are not comfortable opening panels

Sydney Appliance Service can test live circuits, motors, boards, and sensors, and we fit genuine appliance parts so the fix lasts. Using the right parts also protects water seals and electronic timing that cheap parts can mess up.

Parts quality and why it matters

You will see many cheap copies online. They can look close to the real thing, but small differences cause big problems. Here is why genuine appliance parts are worth it.

• Fit
Screws and clips line up the first time. No filing or bending.

• Life
Belts, pumps, and locks last longer. You do not want to do the same job twice in a year.

• Safety
Locks that hold, hoses that seal, and boards that match stop leaks and shorts.

• Performance
Motor sensors and pressure switches need the right match or the control will guess wrong and stop spins.

If you want to fix a laundry machine with a part you buy yourself, take the full model number and the serial number. Ask for genuine appliance parts. If you are unsure, send us a photo of the sticker and we will point you to the right part.

Simple toolkit for spin faults

You do not need a workshop to fix a laundry machine on the basics. A few tools help.

• Screwdrivers
• Small socket set
• Pliers
• Towels and a shallow tray
• Torch
• Cable ties for tidy hoses
• A multimeter if you know how to use it

If you are not confident with a meter, skip the live tests and call a tech for that step.

Step-by-step example fix

Let’s walk a common case. Your front loader finishes the wash, drains forever, then stops with wet clothes.

1. You try spin-only. Same result.
2. You open the filter door and drain a litre of water. You remove two coins and a hair pin.
3. You spin the pump impeller with your finger. It turns, but feels gritty.
4. You close up and run drain-and-spin. It drains well and spins to full speed.
5. Next week the fault returns. This time the pump grinds and stalls.
6. You book Sydney Appliance Service. We bring a genuine pump, fit it, test it, and your spin is back.

In another case, a top loader will wash but never spin unless you push hard on the lid.

1. You try a spin-only cycle and push on the lid. It spins.
2. You check the striker tab on the lid. It is cracked.
3. You order a genuine lid striker and fit it with two screws.
4. The lid clicks. The spin runs fine again.
   A small genuine part solves a big daily pain.

Care tips to keep a strong spin

• Do a drum clean monthly
Run a hot empty cycle with a washer cleaner to clear soap film.

• Use the right detergent and dose
Too many suds slow the spin and can fool sensors.

• Balance your loads
Mix heavy towels with lighter items. Avoid single bulky pieces.

• Clean the filter every few months
Coins find their way in. It takes ten minutes and can save your pump.

• Check hoses yearly
Replace old hoses before they pop. Use quality hoses and genuine appliance parts for valves.

• Keep the machine level
Recheck the feet after moves.

How Sydney Appliance Service can help

We service all of Sydney, we work on all major brands, and we use genuine appliance parts. If your plan is to fix a laundry machine once and be done, quality parts and good testing matter. We can diagnose lid switches and locks, replace belts and pumps, test motors and capacitors, and repair boards. You get clear prices and a simple chat about what went wrong and how to prevent it next time. We can also service your dryer and check the vent while we are there.

Sample scripts you can use with a tech

If you book a job, these short lines help the tech bring the right parts.

• “Front loader, won’t spin, drains but stops, no door error, filter cleared.”
• “Top loader, won’t spin unless I press the lid, likely lid switch or striker.”
• “Spin weak and noisy, belt looks glazed, model number is on the sticker photo.”
• “Off-balance stops often, shocks look oily on the front loader.”
• “Motor hums, no start, older top loader, could be capacitor.”

These clues point us straight to the likely fix and the genuine appliance parts to bring.

Common myths

“My washer is dead if it won’t spin.”
Not true. Most spin issues are simple. Many are fixed with a filter clean, a belt, or a lid switch.

“Any cheap part will do.”
Cheap parts can fail fast or cause new faults. Genuine appliance parts are made for your model.

“Spins always fail because of the board.”
Boards fail, but they are not the first suspect. Check drain, load, and switches first.

“Bigger loads spin better.”
Too big or too small both cause trouble. Aim for a medium, balanced load.

To fix a laundry machine that won’t spin, start simple. Balance the load. Close the lid or door well. Clear the filter and drain. Reset the power. If that does not do it, look at the lid switch or door lock, the belt or direct-drive rotor, and the suspension. Use genuine appliance parts when you replace anything. They fit right, last longer, and protect your machine.

If you are in Sydney and still stuck, book Sydney Appliance Service. We can visit your home, test the machine, and fit genuine appliance parts on the spot for most models. That way your spin is back, your washing dries faster, and your week runs the way you planned.